Aridity — A Darker Bloom, Helena Thulin’s Creative Vision for Fall Winter 2025
by HELENA THULIN
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Aridity — A Darker Bloom
« I wanted to explore new directions this season, evolving the codes of the brand through new beadworks and jewelry techniques, with a relentless dedication to creativity and beauty. Embracing a darker side of Nature and interpreting a wider range of emotions, while remaining true to an unapologetic connection to poetry and craft.
This season I wanted to explore a darkest concept where a distopia would be the starting point of the collection : in a thousand years, what kind of future species would cover the artefacts of our past humanities? »
Helena Thulin, Founder and Creative Director
Artefacts, temporality and dystopia
"For me, an Artefact represents the Past as much as the Future.
Nature itself, does not have temporality. I am drawn to this concept of temporality that brings out humanity most controlling and violent tendencies. While humanity exists experiencing the fear of dying, Nature only is.
This idea of confronting those two narratives brought out a new idea : alongside the beadwork, I would explore a new material : brass."
Introducing brass — a new material language
Its corrosion resistance, durability, workability and antimicrobial properties made it the perfect medium to explore new possibilities. A material that carries both industrial strength and sculptural beauty, brass allowed me to approach jewelry differently — less ornamental, more structural.
Working with a new material shifted my position as a jewelry designer. It felt necessary. Almost inevitable. The material itself dictated new gestures, new balances, new constraints.
Aridity — strength where fragility once bloomed
n Aridity, Helena Thulin stages an oxymore: strength and beauty entwined with seduction and shock. The paradox is immediate — delicate beadwork evoking dew, yet suspended in a world without rain. It is as though our species are no longer floral ones, made of petals and stems. They offer a new twist on beadwork with brand new species, crystalline survivors of a dry future.
Fragility as armour
At the heart of Aridity lies a paradox.
Nature is here sharp, spiky, ready to fight. Species spread like poison ivy worn as armours on a bare skin or entangled on loops, fragile yet weaponized, jewelry becoming both protection and lure.
Here Helena Thulin reclaims fragility as armour. The mushroom — an organic symbol of delight but poison — becomes a silent metaphor threaded through the collection, hinting at intoxication, resilience, decay.
Past and future are not in opposition here but collapsing into one another: the modernity of the craftsmanship is inseparable from the same old techniques, new materials.
What emerges is future nostalgia — an imagined memory of something we have not yet lost.
A new expression for Fall Winter 2025
For Fall Winter 2025, this vision materializes through clashing elements.
Soft crystals confront high-gloss glass beads. Strong brass structures hold lighter, minimalist forms. The pieces are lighter than ever before, yet charged with tension.
Chunky oversized cluster earrings and necklaces are designed as symbols of affirmation and strength. They carry an armour-like presence. Brass structures introduce a new species language — a sculptural evolution of Helena Thulin’s jewelry work.
Discover the pieces born from this vision in our collection!
Born to Bloom, even in aridity
"Aridity is not absence.
It is presence — the charged air before a storm.
It is an exploration of beauty where it should not exist. Jewelry that blooms from barren ground. Accessories that shimmer like mirages, balancing seduction and repulsion at the edge of survival.
In this tension, Helena Thulin continues to explore fashion’s most enduring challenge:
to make us desire what unsettles us — and to find poetry in the darkest soil."
Helena Thulin
Founder & Creative Director
